Wednesday, March 15, 2017

Planting Tomatoes

Tomatoes are America's favorite vegetable gardens. (Yes, we are technically the fruit of the tomato plant, but it has been used as a vegetable eating and cooking and, as such, are usually categorized in the vegetables.)
The vines is fairly easy to grow and will produce a harvest with proper care. Its flexible, however, the tomato plants are susceptible to a range of pests and diseases.

PLANTING

If you are planting a seed (versus buying a transplant), you will want to start Your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the date of the last spring frost on average. See our post on the "seeds of Tomatoes the Easy Way."
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil. To the North, it is extremely important that your site receives at least six hours of Sun. To the South, a light afternoon shade will help tomatoes survive and thrive.

Two weeks before planting seedlings outdoors up the soil to about 1 foot and a mixture of aged manure, compost or fertilizer.
Harden off transplants for a week before moving on.
The transplant after Frost last spring when the soil is already warm. See our best planting dates for transplants for your area.
Established tomato stakes or cages on the ground at the time of planting. Staking tomato fruit continues to develop from the ground, while the caging Let's plant holds himself upright. Some sort of support system is recommended, but it can also generate extensive crops is good if you have the space, and if the weather cooperates.

Planting seeds of two feet apart.
Pinch off a bit from the branches in transplantation, and plant the root ball in enough so that the rest of the lowest leaves are just above ground level.
The water is good for reducing shock to the roots.

CARE

Water generously for the first few days.
Water throughout the growing season, approximately 2 inches per week during the summer. Continue watering consistent!
Five weeks after planting mulch to retain moisture.
To help the tomatoes through a period of drought, find some flat stone and place one at each plant. Stone draws water up from the soil and keep it from evaporating into the atmosphere.

Fertilize two weeks before picking first and again two weeks after the first strumming.
If using stakes, prune your plants by pinching off the suckers so that only a few stems grow per share. Learn how to build other tomato bets and support with this video.
Practice crop rotation from year to year to prevent disease that might have over wintered.
Check out this post for more tips on tomatoes.
PESTS/DISEASES

Tomatoes are susceptible to insect pests, especially tomato hornworms and whiteflies. Links to our pages pest & problems below.
Aphids
Flea beetle
Tomato Hornworm
Whiteflies
Blossom-end Rot
Late blight is a fungal disease that can strike during any part of the growing season.This will cause the spots gray, moldy on the leaves and the fruits are then transformed into chocolate. The disease is spread and supported by persistent weather is humid. This disease will overwinter, so all infected plants must be destroyed. See our blog at "to avoid right with tomato Blight."

Mosaic virus creates distorted leaves and cause the young growth becomes narrow and twisting, and the leaves become speckled with yellow. Unfortunately, infected plants should be destroyed (but don't put it in Your compost pile).

Cracked: when growth is too fast, the fruit skin will crack. This usually happens in the uneven water or moisture is uneven due to weather conditions (rainy period mixed with the dry period). Keeping humidity levels constant with consistent watering and Mulching.
Basil repels aphids, whiteflies, tomato hornworms and mosquitoes from the tomatoes.

CROP STORAGE

Leave your tomatoes on the vine as long as possible. If there is a fall before they appear cooked, place them in a paper bag with the stem up and store it in a cool, darkplace. If temperatures drop and not your tomato ripening, watch this video for tips.
Don't put tomatoes in a sunny window to ripen; they may rot before they mature!
Tomatoes are perfect for picking will be firm and very red color, regardless of size, with perhaps some yellow is left around the stem. 

Ripe tomatoes will be just a little soft.
If your tomato plant still had the first hard ice threaten fruit, pull the whole plant and hang it upside down in the basement or the garage. Pick the tomatoes as they areflushed.
Never refrigerate fresh tomatoes. Doing so spoils the taste and texture that make up that sense of garden tomatoes.